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Asheville's Caf� Scene is Booming on Pack Square.


"Where is a good place to eat around here?" is a question that is asked rather often in Asheville's downtown area, the result of many out-of-town visitors and suburbanites in town for the evening. Of course, there are many good answers to that question, as Asheville is fortunate to have an abundance of terrific eateries of almost any description.

But, one area of town that is getting a lot of attention, with good cause, is the area immediately around Pack Square. This area is home to a number of excellent cafes, and each of them is a beneficiary of the lively locale in which they are set.

On most nights of the week, the Pack Square area is teeming with people from all walks of life. True to Asheville's all-inclusive style, elderly couples strolling hand in hand might intermingle with dreadlocked young urbanites as well as power-dressing financiers and families with young children. The architecture is pleasing to the eye, and the history is a comfort to the soul. The views of nearby mountains are exquisite any time of year. The sound of a street musician or two, playing the saxophone or guitar, can be heard in the background. And, as nightfall approaches, everyone starts looking for a pleasant, comfortable place with good food and a nice view.

Directly across from Pack Place and the Vance Memorial are some excellent choices. La Caterina Trattoria, located at 5 Pack Square (254-1148), is an intimate, cozy Italian trattoria with terrific food and friendly, unstuffy service. The menu changes daily, depending on what is available and seasonal, but some menu items are so popular that they usually show up every day. Fish, chicken, beef and vegetarian dishes are all excellent. La Caterina boasts a nice wine list as well. Desserts are out of this world (try the tiramisu). The d�cor is simple and uncomplicated, but very pleasant. This is a very popular restaurant; diners would be well advised to call in advance for reservations. As is the case with all of the restaurants along this much-traversed avenue, La Caterina sports an outdoor dining area that stays full during the pleasant weather of spring, summer and fall.

The Noodle Shop, at 3 Pack Square (250-9898), serves delicious Chinese fare, similar to what Chinese families serve at home. This is the real thing; no "American-ized" Chinese dishes here. Noodle bowls and tofu dishes are excellent. The Noodle Shop is open for lunch and dinner; reservations are a good idea for dinner. The interior is small and nothing special, but the food is first-rate and worth a visit, and there is always an outside table if it's too crowded inside. Service is fast and friendly.

Bistro 1896 is situated at 7 Pack Square (251-1300). The Paris Bistro-style restaurant serves a changing menu of pasta, fish, chicken, and beef. The wine list is adequate and the dessert menu is worth some attention most of the time. The service is prompt and pleasant. Interior d�cor is unfussy and agreeable. Like other restaurants on Pack Square, reservations are needed during peak hours and peak season.

Caf� on the Square, one of the earliest to arrive on the scene during the area's remarkable restoration and resurgence, is located at 1 Biltmore Avenue (251-5565) and serves very fresh and delicious California cuisine. Hors d'oeuvres, salads, entrees, and desserts are all nicely prepared and creatively presented. The interior d�cor is lovely; the bar is nicely designed, and tables are presented with fresh flowers and white tablecloths. Most of the tables have enough room around them to prevent "that crowded feeling" and provide room for private conversation. The service and ownership are gracious and responsive. Open for lunch and dinner; call for reservations.

The final entry in this smorgasbord of restaurants at the Square is not located directly on the Square, but is around the corner. Salsa Mexican Caribbean Restaurant, located at 6 Patton Avenue (252-9805), serves up some of the most creative island fare that is available in Asheville. Salsa's is always crowded and loud and doesn't take reservations, but it's definitely worth the wait. They also serve a lot of interesting beers, including Jamaica's Red and White. D�cor is of no particular note, but it's not that kind of place. This place is all about the food, and lots of it. Cuban dishes are delicious and authentic. Vegetarian goodies are noteworthy. Everything is spicy, daring and fun, but not fiery. If a diner cares to add some extra "fire" to any dish, plenty of Hector's special smoky sauce is available on the tables.

So, take your pick. Depending on your mood, you can find something to please most palates just a short walk from the Biltmore Avenue parking garage. Enjoy the wonderful mountain seasons, and enjoy this delightful, eclectic collection of eateries all within a "stone's throw" from Pack Square.



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